A number of indoor plants may be propagated by this method, and it is also an excellent way of reducing the height of rubber plants which are getting out of hand. Plants are air-layered simply by removing a section of the outer bark and wrapping a handful of wet sphagnum moss around the exposed area, or by making an upward cut through the main stem and wrapping wet sphagnum moss round the incision.

For the majority such advice may seem unnecessary, but it is worth recalling that an ever-increasing number of people inadvertently drink weedkiller or other poison annually with fatal results.

A piece of matchstick inserted in the opening will hold it open and, after dusting it with hormone rooting powder, wrap the incision in a handful of wet sphagnum moss. This in turn should be wrapped in polythene which is tied firmly in position above and below the moss, the object being to exclude the air and prevent it drying out.

When purchasing, a brief inspection of the plant is advisable. The majority of pests are easily discernible with the naked eye, and a glance at the undersides of leaves may well change your mind about a proposed purchase.

Adiantum is widely distributed in South America, Australia and New Zealand. The suitable temperature for the plat is from10 to 18C. (50 to 65F.). It is moderately easy to grow.

When using aerosol sprays of any description (other than those for pest control and cleaning) plants should be carefully avoided; better still to remove them from the room altogether.

Like fertilisers, all insecticides should be used as instructed, as that seemingly harmless little extra may well cause leaf scorch and other damage. Pests should be treated as soon as they are seen, as any delay will make their control just that much more difficult.

A shaded position is preferred. Water freely other than during the winter months when permanently wet compost can be harmful. Propagate by division. A sharp knife will be required to cut through the matted roots of older clumps. When split, the smaller clumps should be potted up individually and watered in. Less congested clumps can be teased apart into smaller, or even individual, pieces if a large number of new plants are required.

Propagating houseplants through cuttings is not the sort of propagating method that appeals to the professional, but it does have many advantages for the amateur. A final point: when cutting the stems of crotons care should be taken to ensure that the sap does not get onto one’s clothing – from personal experience I have regrettably learned that the stain is impossible.

The rubber plant, Ficus eldstica robusta, may be propagated in a number of ways, leaf and top cuttings being the most practical. Cuttings are best taken while plants are dormant, usually between the months of November and March. The propagating bed temperature requires to he rather high, something in excess 42 C for best results. Very soft cuttings with large leaves rarely do, well; firm cuttings with some three or four leaves attached do very much better. (With any form of top cutting it is important to ensure that there are at least two firm leaves on the stem, otherwise it will all be a waste of time).

There are a great number of easy and difficult indoor plants that may be increased in very much the same way as the hederas, or ivies. For the more difficult plants a generally higher temperature will he required to encourage root development.

Aglaonema is widely distributed in South East Asia. 16 to 2eC. (6o to 70F.). The suitable temperature for Aglaonema is less than 16C. (60F.); for a short period this may do little harm, but it is essential to provide adequate warmth if these plants are to do well.

Firstly, the stem of the flower should he cut through at about water level with a sharp knife. If the bract shows signs of disintegrating it will be found that the entire flower stalk can be removed if it is pulled gently while the rosette is held in position.

When buying plants in flower it is best to select those that arc more backward in order to get the longest life possible from them. The ideal stage is when the pink bract is a little above the water level in the urn. Plants that have developed to the stage where the blue flowers in the otherwise pink bract are fully open should be avoided.

Though expensive, if purchased at the proper stage of development, A. rhodocyanea will give anything from eight to ten months of pleasure before the bract eventually deteriorates. The high cost merely reflects the time taken by the nurseryman to bring the plant to maturity, at least five years from seed under normal conditions.

If you are at the starting stage of planting and growing a fruit tree, you must firstly understand that you must take good care to grow the tree. Many of the fruit trees die at the early stages of their life, not because of diseases or pestilence, but because of lack of due care. That is why, it is absolutely important to take proper care of the fruit tree from the start.

Such an intensive care includes knowledge regarding the fruit trees various life stages. For example during the early stage of its life, if your tree starts growing fruits, it is absolutely necessary to provide support to its branches, since these are still not ready to hold such a great weight. If support is not provided, it is very likely that the branch will break as a result of the extra weight of the fruits. To avoid this situation, one must offer enough support to the tree. You can prop the branch up with a plank or even tie it to another branch, which is higher up. No sooner the tree becomes independent and gets the capacity to grow its fruits and hold them on it its own.

Surprisingly enough anthuriums are, on the whole, not too difficult to raise from seed provided it is fresh and sown in a temperature approaching 27C. (80F.). When large enough to handle the seedlings should be potted not into soil, but into a mixture of coarse pear and rough sphagnum moss; to help things along try soaking-the moss in liquid fertiliser at standard strength for 24 hours before using.

A spacious propagating case will then be required to house these large and somewhat spiteful cuttings – all the ananas have vicious spines along the edges of their leaves and need careful handling.

Ant huriunz czysta Ilinztin is grown purely for its truly superb leaves. This is a plant when the beginner would do well to ignore until he has acquired some degree of skill with simpler subjects. In the greenhouse collections of many enthusiasts some surprisingly fine plants are grown, but it is seldom, if ever, that reasonable specimens of A. crystalli num are seen. Frequently the reason for this is that the grower tends to care for these plants by potting them very conventionally in standard pots, when it is infinitely better to grow them on a moss-covered raft.

In spite of the vast number of plants which are much more attractive in appearance a surprising number of green-leaved ivies still retain their popularity. The fact that there are so many other colourful plants on the market is in all probability a very good reason for the continued appeal of the green varieties, as they are useful for toning down the colouring when planted arrangements are being prepared. H. Chicago has simple-shaped green leaves with no frills whatsoever. Green Ripple has slightly larger green leaves with prominent veins which are the main attraction.

Red spider is often responsible for leaves gradually turning brown and shrivelling from the outer edge; inspection of the undersides should be made when such leaves are noticed. II. canariensis (II. Claire de Marengo), H. maculara and H. Goldleaf are the larger sorts that one is most likely to meet. These are essentially more upright plants and should be grown on canes or against a wall for support.

Of these. Glacier is easily the toughest and is an excellent subject for finishing off the front of borders indoors and out, and in particular for use along the edge of outdoor window boxes.

As in the case of Azalea indica, the most important requirement of hydrangeas when grown as pot plants is water. They must be kept moist all the time and this usually means a good watering every day, but it is important that the water drains away freely ; they should not be allowed actually to stand in water. Purchased in the spring of the year hydrangeas are very little trouble if kept in a light, cool room and watered and fed regularly.

In good growing conditions plants can be very invasive, so will need hard pruning any time after flowering. Mealy bugs can be troublesome pests should they find their way in between the twining stems of the plant, so a careful watch must be kept in order to eradicate them before they have a chance to get established.

After they have finished flowering indoors it is usually best to plant hydrangeas out in the garden where they will quickly establish themselves as colourful shrubs. Before planting it is important that the ground he well watered, as well as the compost in the pot; thereafter the soil surrounding the plant must be kept watered until the plant is established. So many plants fail as a result of the soil drying out after planting.

In your quest for fresh flowers, it pays to know the right florist. Knowing where to go saves time, money and will help you sleep better the next time you need flowers for any occasion.

It’s not enough that you call or visit any flower shop for your special needs. True, there are lots of florists in town but not all of them give excellent service. So you have to look around until you find one that suits you.

While the nearest florist may sound like the right choice, don’t use this as your sole criterion for judging the merits of a flower shop. It’s a mistake to confine yourself to nearby shops since location does not necessarily guarantee quality.

Look at this way: a good florist should be like your best friend. That person should be around when you need him or her. He or she must be sensitive to your needs and know exactly what you want. Nothing is more frustrating that a florist who doesn’t understand you and can’t satisfy your need for certain flowers. Avoid that individual unless you want to waste time and money.

Truly miniature and one of the most graceful of all foliage plants, Cocos weddelliana has in recent years been in short supply. A regrettable state of affairs hut, like all these attractive slow- growing plants, once the demand exceeds supply it is very difficult for the producer to catch up. However, having traced a supplier and persuaded him to part with a plant, the owner should provide a moist situation in a light, warm place.

To give some idea of the amount of fruit that is possible on one plant, one recent writer claimed that his C. mitis had over two hundred oranges on the branches, a spectacular result considering that it was the plant’s third year in a living-room window position. Scale insects can he a messy and troublesome pest on this plant, so keep a watchful eye for their presence, particularly along the main stem.

Besides the dwarf C. mitts there are many other members of the citrus family that one can experiment with, but it should be borne in mind that these may take up to ten years to produce fruits, whereas C. mitts will oblige in three to four years.